Water (Oceans)
1. Learning Objectives
After reading these notes, you will be able to:
2. Hydrological Cycle
π Components and Processes of the Water Cycle
| Component | Processes Involved |
|---|---|
| Water storage in oceans | Evaporation, Evapotranspiration, Sublimation |
| Water in the atmosphere | Condensation, Precipitation |
| Water storage in ice and snow | Snowmelt runoff to streams |
| Surface runoff | Stream flow, freshwater storage, infiltration |
| Groundwater storage | Groundwater discharge, springs |
3. Relief of the Ocean Floor
πΊοΈ Four Major Divisions of Ocean Floor
Shallowest part
Avg gradient 1Β°
Avg width 80 km
Connects shelf
to ocean basin
Gradient 2β5Β°
Flattest region
Depth 3000β6000 m
Clay and silt
Deepest parts
3β5 km deeper
57 deeps explored
ποΈ 1. Continental Shelf
The extended margin of each continent occupied by relatively shallow seas and gulfs. Shallowest part of the ocean β average gradient of 1Β° or even less. Ends at a very steep slope called the shelf break.
Average width: 80 km. Narrowest: coasts of Chile, west coast of Sumatra. Largest: Siberian shelf in Arctic Ocean β 1,500 km wide.
Depth: 30 m to 600 m. Covered with sediments brought by rivers, glaciers, wind. Massive sedimentary deposits β source of fossil fuels.
π 2. Continental Slope
Connects the continental shelf and the ocean basins. Begins where the continental shelf sharply drops off into a steep slope. Gradient: 2β5Β°. Depth: 200β3,000 m. The slope boundary indicates the end of the continents. Canyons and trenches are observed in this region.
ποΈ 3. Deep Sea Plain
Gently sloping areas of the ocean basins. These are the flattest and smoothest regions of the world. Depths: 3,000β6,000 m. Covered with fine-grained sediments like clay and silt.
π³οΈ 4. Oceanic Deeps / Trenches
Deepest parts of the oceans. Relatively steep-sided, narrow basins. 3β5 km deeper than the surrounding ocean floor. Occur at bases of continental slopes and along island arcs. Associated with active volcanoes and strong earthquakes β significant for study of plate movements.
57 deeps explored so far: Pacific = 32, Atlantic = 19, Indian = 6.
β°οΈ Minor Relief Features of Ocean Floor
| Feature | Description | Example |
|---|---|---|
| Mid-Oceanic Ridge | Two chains of mountains separated by a large depression. Peaks can be 2,500 m high β some reach above ocean surface. | Iceland (part of mid-Atlantic Ridge) |
| Seamount | Mountain with pointed summits rising from seafloor β does not reach surface. Volcanic in origin. 3,000β4,500 m tall. | Emperor Seamount (extension of Hawaiian Islands, Pacific) |
| Submarine Canyon | Deep valleys comparable to the Grand Canyon. Found cutting across continental shelves and slopes. Often extend from mouths of large rivers. | Hudson Canyon β best known in the world |
| Guyot | Flat-topped seamount. Evidence of gradual subsidence. More than 10,000 seamounts and guyots exist in Pacific Ocean alone. | Found across Pacific Ocean |
| Atoll | Low islands in tropical oceans consisting of coral reefs surrounding a central depression. Central part may be sea (lagoon) or enclosed freshwater/saline water body. | Tropical ocean islands |
4. Temperature of Ocean Waters
π Factors Affecting Temperature Distribution of Ocean Water
π 1. Latitude
Temperature of surface water decreases from equator towards poles because the amount of insolation decreases poleward.
πΊοΈ 2. Unequal Distribution of Land and Water
Oceans in the Northern Hemisphere receive more heat due to their contact with a larger extent of land than the oceans in the Southern Hemisphere.
π¨ 3. Prevailing Wind
Winds blowing from land towards oceans drive warm surface water away from coast β upwelling of cold water from below β longitudinal temperature variation. Onshore winds pile up warm water near coast β raise temperature.
π 4. Ocean Currents
Warm currents raise temperature in cold areas; cold currents decrease temperature in warm ocean areas. Example: Gulf Stream (warm) raises temperature near eastern coast of N. America and west coast of Europe. Labrador current (cold) lowers temperature near NE coast of N. America.
π Key Temperature Data β Ocean Surface
| Location / Latitude | Average Surface Temperature |
|---|---|
| Overall ocean average | ~27Β°C |
| 20Β° latitude | ~22Β°C |
| 40Β° latitude | ~14Β°C |
| Near Poles | ~0Β°C |
| Northern Hemisphere (annual avg) | ~19Β°C |
| Southern Hemisphere (annual avg) | ~16Β°C |
π Vertical Distribution β Three Layers
π΄ First Layer (Top β Warm)
Top layer of warm oceanic water. About 500 m thick. Temperature: 20Β°β25Β°C. Present throughout the year in tropical regions; develops only during summer in mid-latitudes.
π΅ Second Layer (Thermocline)
Lies below the first layer. Characterised by rapid decrease in temperature with increasing depth. Thermocline is 500β1,000 m thick. Boundary usually begins around 100β400 m below sea surface.
βοΈ Third Layer (Cold β Deep)
Very cold; extends up to the deep ocean floor. Temperature approaches 0Β°C. About 90% of total volume of ocean water is found below the thermocline in this zone.
5. Salinity of Ocean Waters
π Factors Affecting Ocean Salinity
- Evaporation and Precipitation: Salinity of surface layer depends mainly on evaporation and precipitation. High evaporation β high salinity; high precipitation β low salinity.
- Fresh water from rivers (coastal) and freezing/thawing of ice (polar): Surface salinity greatly influenced β river influx reduces salinity; freezing increases salinity.
- Wind: Influences salinity of an area by transferring water to other areas.
- Ocean Currents: Contribute to salinity variations. Salinity, temperature and density of water are interrelated β any change in temperature or density influences salinity.
π Horizontal Distribution of Salinity
| Water Body | Salinity | Reason |
|---|---|---|
| Normal open ocean | 33β° β 37β° | Standard range for open seas |
| Red Sea (land-locked) | Up to 41β° | High evaporation, limited freshwater influx |
| Estuaries and Arctic | 0β° β 35β° (seasonal) | Seasonal variation |
| Hot and dry regions | Up to 70β° | Very high evaporation |
| Atlantic Ocean (avg) | ~36β° | Max 37β° between 20Β°Nβ30Β°N |
| Indian Ocean (avg) | 35β° | β |
| Bay of Bengal | Low | Influx of river water (large rivers) |
| Arabian Sea | Higher | High evaporation + low freshwater influx |
| North Sea | Higher (despite high latitude) | Saline water brought by North Atlantic Drift |
| Baltic Sea | Low | Large influx of river water |
| Mediterranean Sea | Higher | High evaporation |
| Black Sea | Very low | Enormous freshwater influx by rivers |
π Vertical Distribution of Salinity
Summary β Quick Revision
Blue Planet: Earth has abundant water. Next to air, water = most important for life. Water = rare in solar system. 91% of planetary water is in oceans. 59% of water that falls on land returns to atmosphere through evaporation.
Hydrological Cycle: Continuous circulation of water in liquid, solid and gaseous forms between oceans, atmosphere, land surface, subsurface and organisms. Has been working for billions of years.
4 Major Ocean Floor Divisions: Continental Shelf (shallowest, avg 80 km wide, gradient 1Β°), Continental Slope (gradient 2β5Β°, depth 200β3000 m), Deep Sea Plain (3000β6000 m, flattest region), Oceanic Deeps/Trenches (57 explored β Pacific 32, Atlantic 19, Indian 6).
Minor Features: Mid-Oceanic Ridge (two mountain chains with depression β Iceland example), Seamount (pointed, volcanic, 3000β4500 m), Submarine Canyon (deep valleys β Hudson Canyon), Guyot (flat-topped seamount), Atoll (coral reef + lagoon in tropics).
Ocean Temperature: Avg surface = 27Β°C. Decreases equator to poles β rate 0.5Β°C per latitude. NH avg 19Β°C; SH avg 16Β°C. Highest temperature NOT at equator but slightly north. Temp falls rapidly up to 200 m depth, then slows.
3 Thermal Layers: First (surface, 500 m, 20β25Β°C), Second (thermocline, 500β1000 m, rapid temperature drop), Third (very cold, deep, ~0Β°C β 90% of ocean volume). Arctic/Antarctic = only ONE cold layer.
4 Factors Affecting Ocean Temperature: Latitude, Unequal distribution of land and water, Prevailing wind (onshore/offshore), Ocean currents (warm raises temp, cold lowers temp β Gulf Stream, Labrador current).
Salinity: Amount of salt (gm) per 1,000 gm of seawater. Expressed in β° (ppt). Brackish water limit = 24.7β°. Normal open ocean = 33β37β°. Highest: Lake Van Turkey (330β°), Dead Sea (238β°), Great Salt Lake (220β°), Red Sea (41β°).
Factors affecting salinity: Evaporation and precipitation (main), river influx (coast), freezing/thawing (polar), wind, ocean currents. Salinity, temperature and density are interrelated.
Vertical Salinity: Generally increases with depth. Halocline = zone where salinity increases sharply. Lower salinity water rests above denser higher salinity water β stratification by salinity. Deep salinity is very much fixed.
Important Terms to Remember
- Hydrological Cycle: The continuous circulation of water within Earth’s hydrosphere in liquid, solid and gaseous phases β between oceans, atmosphere, land surface, subsurface and organisms.
- Blue Planet: Earth is called the Blue Planet because of its abundant water supply. Water is rare in the solar system β not found on the Sun or elsewhere.
- Continental Shelf: The extended margin of each continent occupied by relatively shallow seas and gulfs. Average gradient 1Β° or less. Average width 80 km. Ends at the shelf break. Depths: 30β600 m. Largest: Siberian shelf (1,500 km wide).
- Shelf Break: The very steep slope at which the continental shelf typically ends, marking the beginning of the continental slope.
- Continental Slope: Connects the continental shelf and the ocean basins. Gradient 2β5Β°. Depth 200β3,000 m. Marks the end of continents. Canyons and trenches found here.
- Deep Sea Plain: Gently sloping areas of ocean basins. The flattest and smoothest regions of the world. Depth 3,000β6,000 m. Covered with fine-grained clay and silt.
- Oceanic Deeps / Trenches: Deepest parts of the oceans. Steep-sided narrow basins. 3β5 km deeper than surrounding ocean floor. Associated with active volcanoes and earthquakes β significant for plate movement study. 57 explored so far.
- Mid-Oceanic Ridge: Two chains of mountains separated by a large depression on the ocean floor. Peaks can be up to 2,500 m. Some reach above ocean surface (e.g., Iceland β part of mid-Atlantic Ridge).
- Seamount: A mountain with pointed summits rising from the seafloor but not reaching the ocean surface. Volcanic in origin. Height 3,000β4,500 m. Example: Emperor Seamount (Pacific Ocean).
- Guyot: A flat-topped seamount. Shows evidence of gradual subsidence. More than 10,000 seamounts and guyots exist in the Pacific Ocean alone.
- Submarine Canyon: Deep valley on the ocean floor, sometimes comparable to the Grand Canyon. Found cutting across continental shelves and slopes. Often extend from mouths of large rivers. Best known: Hudson Canyon.
- Atoll: Low islands found in tropical oceans consisting of coral reefs surrounding a central depression (lagoon). May enclose sea water, fresh water, brackish or saline water.
- Thermocline: The boundary region between the surface waters of the ocean and the deeper layers β where there is a rapid decrease of temperature with depth. Usually begins 100β400 m below sea surface. Thickness: 500β1,000 m.
- Three Thermal Layers of Ocean: First layer (warm, 500 m, 20β25Β°C), Second layer (thermocline, rapid cooling), Third layer (very cold, ~0Β°C, 90% of ocean volume).
- Upwelling: The process where winds blowing from land drive warm surface water away from coast, causing cold water from below to rise to the surface.
- Salinity: The total content of dissolved salts in sea water. Calculated as amount of salt (gm) dissolved in 1,000 gm of seawater. Expressed in parts per thousand (β° or ppt).
- Brackish Water: Water with salinity between that of fresh water and seawater. Salinity of 24.7β° is the upper limit to demarcate brackish water.
- Halocline: A distinct zone in the ocean where salinity increases sharply with depth. Lower salinity water rests above higher salinity dense water β leading to stratification by salinity.
- Stratification by Salinity: The layering of ocean water based on salinity β high salinity (denser) water sinks below low salinity (lighter) water, forming distinct layers.
- Gulf Stream: A warm ocean current in the Atlantic Ocean β raises temperature near the eastern coast of North America and the west coast of Europe.
- Labrador Current: A cold ocean current β lowers temperature near the north-east coast of North America.
